From our very beginning as an Instagram venture and throughout our expansion as a blog, designer Carla Dawn Behrle has been a tremendous supporter of Daily Leather. She’s a phenomenal designer of bespoke leather fashion, and her pieces have been featured in editorial spreads in every major fashion magazine on the newsstand. Recently, she took a few minutes from her busy schedule to answer a few questions and give us a chance to learn a little more about her…
Cyndi Lauper in Carla Dawn Behrle’s Design
When did you first become interested in fashion design?
When I was a kid- all I wanted to do was design costumes, for anything… I loved movies and television that had any kind of style statements & loved how costume could carry along a story line and add depth, intrigue and personality to a character.
Fashion and costume, no matter what period, enthralled me because of its power to communicate.
And, when my mom had the time, she loved to sew. She could spend hours creating incredible couture like pieces and I loved watching as the fabric took on a form. I’d watch like a hawk and ask a lot of questions – she had me learning to use a sewing machine before I could reach the pedal!
The combination of these two parts of the whole – the power of communication and the craft and skill that went into a piece of clothing- really spoke to me.
How did you get your start in the fashion industry?
Sort of accidentally – I’d gotten into The United Scenic Artist’s Union at 17 – during maybe the biggest slump on Broadway – It was impossible to find even assisting work. I was working at the NYC Shakespeare Festival’s Costume shop – building costumes when I decided to do a line of my own.
When and why did you decide to focus on leather design?
At the costume shop I got a project with large elements of leather in it. That changed everything for me – I liked it so much better than working with fabric! There is simply something alive and earthy about it – it behaves like something truly natural – it has the ability to mold to form and to drape – It can be incredibly tough or the exact opposite- and it lends itself to so many applications. That was when I made the decision to focus on leather- and as a designer I knew it would help me focus my work as well – so Leather was it for me!
When did you start your own label?
This label grew out of my initial line, World Domination, which was a fetish inspired clubwear line in the 1990’s. The line was represented by Patricia Field and sold in her shops and globally. By Late 90’s the line was much more fashion oriented and getting more expensive – the name was making it impossible to sell to certain accounts – (the fashion industry is not known for it’s sense of humor – and did not appreciate the tongue in cheek of it at all!) So the line took on my name in 1998, which also coincided with the opening of my original shop.
What is your favorite piece that you’ve designed?
My “Theda” Wedding dress, in pearlized leather and silk. And my “Clockwork Orange” coat which is an archival piece that I really need to re-visit.
Theda Wedding Gown
What is your favorite leather piece in your own wardrobe?
Currently, My Amelia Jacket and my clean leggings.
Amelia Jacket
Who are some of your design heroes?
Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaia, Adrian and Jean Claude Jitrois.
Where do you find inspiration for your pieces?
It could be something a simple as a skin in a unique finish, or it may be techniques or a silhouette I want to explore, or a mood I want to evoke. I love the evolutionary process that fashion can be. Trend for trends sake – is not what does it for me.
Currently, with the focus of my work being the custom made, it’s often the client themselves who helps inspire a piece- some come in with very clear ideas, and others come in very open and flexible. Some want a personalized variation of a style off my website. Regardless, of how collaboratively (or not) a client want to work -I always like getting a sense of who I am designing for over the course of fittings, seeing their personal style and approaching the design with that individual in mind. And I love that it is always something different.
Your fashions are part of some of the most iconic leather fashion images in the media. How did that come about?
Men In Black 3 dress
In that respect I’ve been very lucky, I started my business before the Internet really took off. Things were a little smaller, a little more intimate…a little more focused.
You could actually start a fashion business here in NYC then (and manufacture it here too) without a ton of money, I was able to open a retail shop and have my manufacturing on premises.
There was tons of great print media being created here and the stylists and editors would really seek out the new and unique. They would show up on my doorstep…
Fashion wasn’t completely driven by huge name brands yet – Labels and uniform dressing were most definitely NOT the point.
So, I got to work with great stylists early on, some of the best in the biz now – our businesses grew up together.
And it did not hurt that I could make things up practically on the spot for special projects, if I wanted.
Getting to work with Patricia Field was tremendous in all respects. Besides being the most clear-sighted, straightforward, take no BS, ethical person I have had the honor of working with in this industry, She is incredibly supportive of the designers and artists she believes in. A lot of celebrities and stylists initially found my work through her stores and her showroom.
Is there anything you’re working on next that you can share with us?
I am looking towards getting back into production again.
